Furnas Lake – The Azores

Furnas Lake

Sao Miguel Island is well known for its picturesque crater lakes, but perhaps the most overlooked of these is Lagoa das Furnas (Furnas Lake). It may not be quite as photogenic as Lagoa do Fogo, or have a made-for-Instagram overlook like Lagoa Verde and Lagoa Azul, but Lagoa das Furnas is a spectacular lake in its own right. Furnas Lake and the neighboring village of Furnas were collectively one of the most memorable and relaxing parts of our trip to the Azores.



Getting There

Located just outside the village of Furnas on the eastern side of Sao Miguel Island, Furnas Lake sits inside one of the calderas of the active Furnas Volcano. The drive from the center of the village of Furnas to the lake takes about 5 minutes, or you could walk to the lake in about 30 minutes. If you’re coming from Furnas on Route EN-1A, you will have the option to take sharp right turn to the entrance to the fumaroles, or you can continue for another mile to a different parking area that provides easy access to the church (Cappela da Nossa Senhora das Vitorias). Both parking areas have a nominal parking fee.

The Fumaroles

The Fumarolas da Lagoa das Furnas are located on the northern tip of Furnas Lake and are easily the lake’s biggest tourist attraction. While the Furnas has plenty of geothermal activity, the fumaroles on the water’s edge are one of the most impressive examples of just how active the area really is. A series of boardwalks leads visitors through the billowing clouds of sulfuric smoke emanating from the mud pools and fumaroles. If you’ve ever visited Yellowstone National Park, this is very similar to the many boardwalks of the famous geyser basins (the smell will be familiar too).

One thing that makes this particular area unique is that the restaurants in town use the geothermal heat to cook the local stew known as “cozido”. Each restaurant has its own designated hole in the ground where they submerge massive pots of meat and vegetables each morning in order to be fully cooked by lunch time. We ate a cozido at Tony’s in Furnas, and it was the most outrageous amount of food we’ve ever been served. We split the meal for two, and while it was delicious, we were faced with a heaping pile of local meats and vegetables which we had no chance of finishing.

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Boardwalk through the fumaroles
 lagoa das furnas lake
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The Ducks

Anyone who has attempted to make a purchase from the lakeside snack truck has undoubtedly come into contact with the lake’s feathered denizens. The gang of squawking ducks have become a tourist attraction of its own, and the snack truck actually sells bags of duck food (we aren’t proud to admit that we bought two bags).

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Hey little guy

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The Trail

The trail around the permitter of the lake is about 5 miles long, so the full loop can take about 2-3 hours to complete. The most prominent features of the trail are the fumaroles and the 19th century gothic church, Cappela da Nossa Senhora das Vitorias. There was also a rather large carp jumping out of the water as we walked along the shore. If you’d rather explore the lake on water rather than land, there are paddleboat rentals available over by the fumaroles.
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Cappela da Nossa Senhora das Vitorias
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View from the north side of Furnas Lake

View from Above

One of the best views of Furnas Lake is from Castelo Branco, a small “castle” perched on a hilltop about 15 minutes from the lake. This viewpoint not only offers a birds eye view of Furnas Lake, but also the village of Furnas, the surrounding mountainous green landscape, and the Atlantic Ocean.
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View of Furnas Lake from Castelo Branco

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