A Weekend in Sorrento, Italy
As our week in Tuscany was coming to a close, the three of us who would be remaining in Italy for the final two days of the trip needed to stop procrastinating and come to a final decision on how we would be spending our final weekend in Italy (talk about last minute planning). Since we would be flying out of Rome, the idea of spending the weekend in Rome was on the short list of ideas, but ultimately, we found a good last-minute deal on Hotels.com and and decided to drive to Rome and take a series of trains down to Sorrento. Despite only having a weekend in Sorrento, we left feeling more than satisfied with our last minute decision. While you could easily spend several days exploring the city and the surrounding area, a weekend in Sorrento is enough time to gain an appreciation for this beautiful part of Italy’s coast.
Getting There
Getting from Rome to Sorrento only took about three hours including wait time between trains. It took a bit of finesse to figure out the train system and determine which tickets to buy, but overall it was a manageable experience. Despite not technically being part of the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento is often lumped in with Positano and the other Amalfi Coast towns. While many people would argue that Positano is more beautiful and charming (this is debatable anyway), Sorrento, with a train station in the center of the city, is considerably easier to get to if you’re coming from Rome/Naples.
After arriving in Rome’s Roma Termini, we purchased tickets to Napoli Centrale on ItaliaRail. The train ride from Rome to Naples took about an hour and ten minutes in a nice comfortable train car. From Napoli Centrale we took the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento which also took about an hour. The Circumvesuviana is a much grungier local route than the ride from Rome to Naples (think subway versus Amtrak). Apparently the Circumvesuviana is notorious for pickpocketing, but we managed to make it out unscathed. It definitely wasn’t a luxurious journey, but it was an adventure and the views of Mt. Vesuvius from the train window were a nice bonus.
Arriving in Sorrento
After disembarking at the train station in Sorrento we got a taxi to take us to our hotel. It’s important to note that taxis in Sorrento are a total racket. Our five-minute taxi ride cost €26. Unfortunately, since Sorrento is set on the side of a cliff with narrow winding roads, oftentimes hauling luggage even short distances is not a realistic option. Fortunately, the views from the Hotel Miramare quickly made us forget about the overpriced taxi ride. The hotel was about a 15-minute walk into the center of town, but the rooms were clean and newly updated and the views of Mt. Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples from the balcony and pool deck were tough to beat. Overall, we would definitely recommend it.
About Sorrento
Many visitors only visit Sorrento for a day or two, oftentimes as a stop on a cruise or in conjunction with a visit to Positano and the Amalfi Coast. While you could easily spend several days in Sorrento, a weekend is enough time to get a good feel for the city and enjoy some of the incredible food, drink, and scenery. Sorrento has long been a popular tourist destination for Italians and foreigners alike, due to its stunning coastal scenery, culinary scene, and bustling narrow streets lined with shops and boutiques. Sorrento offers amazing views of Mt. Vesuvius, the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and the island of Capri.
The city is effectively divided into two main sections. There is the city center which is located on the side of the cliffs overlooking the ocean and then there is the part of the city down on the water at Marina Grande. The best way to get from top to bottom or vice versa is on the steep narrow street called Via Sopra le Mura. Most of the shops and activity is located up above on/around Corso Italia, but there are a fair number of restaurants down by the water. The beach itself is nothing to write home about. This is definitely not the place to be if you’re expecting white sand beaches, but the setting with restaurants located on the water at the foot of the cliffs with amazing views of Vesuvius is incredibly beautiful.
Food/Shopping
The food in Sorrento, like most of Italy, is amazing. Given it’s proximity to Naples, the pizza is as good as it gets. There are also countless restaurants lining the narrow streets that offer incredible seafood, pasta, and a dizzying array of other Italian dishes. The area is also famous for its limoncello and it is basically sold in every souvenir shop in town, not to mention all of the restaurants and bars. We had dinner the first night down by the water at Ristorante Bagni Sant’Anna. The restaurant is located out on a pier, so it has some of the best ocean views in Sorrento. The seafood was also excellent. We had dinner the second night at a restaurant called Cafe Latino up on the Corso Italia. The dining area at Cafe Latino is a large outdoor garden in the heart of town. Many of the tables are set underneath lemon trees and we actually saw a lemon fall on a woman’s head in the middle of her meal (she was fine). The pizza here was insanely good.
Sorrento is also well known for the many shops that line its charming streets. One of the best ways to experience the city is to simply wander and pop in and out of the shops. The area is especially well known for its woodworking and limoncello, both of which can be found in abundance just about anywhere you go in town. It’s worth mentioning that stores stay open late. We walked around after dinner on a Saturday night and the city was bustling, and not just the bars and restaurants. Everything from clothing stores to souvenir shops were still open and there was no sign that they were getting ready to close.
Day Trip to Capri
There are several tour operators that offer organized day trips to the island of Capri and the Amalfi Coast. We took a full-day boat trip to Capri, which included a stop at the Blue Grotto, passing through the Faraglioni, and ~4 hours to explore the island independently. Capri was extremely beautiful and interesting, but since we visited in July, it was very busy. The crowds of other tourists was a bit overwhelming. Sorrento, while also extremely popular among tourists, did not feel nearly so overcrowded.
Other Things to do in Sorrento
While we found a weekend to be perfectly reasonable amount of time to spend in Sorrento/Capri, we certainly didn’t get to do everything we would have had we had more time. Here are some more things to do in/around Sorrento:
- Visit the Sorrento Cathedral (Duomo di Sorrento)
- Take a day trip to Pompeii
- Visit the Baths of Queen Giovanna
- Explore the Amalfi Coast
- Visit Chiostro di San Francesco